On the occasion of the world microbiome day, Next in Beauty published, last June 27, this article by our Commercial Director, Iván Parra Guerra, where he explains in detail all the fundamental aspects of “The Microbiome and its claim”.
… The microbiota has always been there, even before we realized it existed. The interaction with cosmetics has always been there too, but it was also unknown.
The safety of the product for the skin, extended to the safety for the microbiota in terms of interaction and knowledge of the effects that the formula can bring, means that products can be even more effective and safe, generating new targets for the cosmetics of the future.
With the rise of microbiome-related products in the cosmetic industry, formulators are challenged to create products that keep our natural skin flora intact and healthy while ensuring the preservation and non-contamination of a formula.
These formulations with probiotic, prebiotic and postbiotic ingredients are expected to maintain or improve, but never damage the skin flora.
The most classic preservatives traditionally used in cosmetics are broad-spectrum biocidal ingredients. There are very few conclusive studies on the effect of preservatives on the skin microbiome, it is anticipated that stronger broad-spectrum biocides may have a greater impact on the natural skin flora.
This means that, on the one hand, we would like to inactivate organisms that accidentally enter the product, and on the other hand, we prefer to maintain healthy, normal skin flora.
Regulatory pressure, and sometimes negative pressure on certain chemicals, has limited the palette of preservatives and ingredients for product safety.
While few marketers would call for more regulation, the microbiome-centric skin care trend continues to grow. And science is accelerating development in this area, providing exciting new developments for the future of personal care. For example, ongoing research is uncovering the role of the microbiome in skin conditions such as psoriasis and identifying ways to provide potential treatment.
When looking at cosmetics from the perspective of the microbiome, we need a paradigm shift. Instead of looking for the most effective active ingredient, we need to look for low activity in the microbiome, given the background that any interference is potentially harmful.
As we move forward, it will become increasingly important for companies to understand the legal obligations and implications of their microbiome-compatible pre-, pro- and post-microbiome-compatible products in the consumer market. Both companies and regulators will also need to understand how to adapt testing, regulatory and marketing standards for these products to ensure product safety and quality in this emerging space….
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